May 28th, 2008
The following is FoWR’s letter to the USFS Forest Supervisor, Jody Noiron and her official response.
Dear Supervisor Noiron,
It’s been nearly 2 years since our initial meeting (and the closure of Williamson Rock to climbing) in that time we have established an excellent working relationship with USFS, specifically in cooperation with Jonathan (Yonni) Schwartz who has been our primary liaison. We have made consistent progress with Yonni’s guidance and have made visits to the office(s) and field trips when called upon.
We have also met with others at the USFS including former rangers Cid Morgan and Craig Snider as well as biologist Teresa Sue (not to mention those from other agencies) who have all been helpful and optimistic about the possibility of re-opening the area to climbers. Furthermore we have provided resources when required and eagerly await the opportunity to facilitate any projects.
As you’re aware, in June during the scoping period climbers submitted over 400 individual letters to the USFS, a very strong response.
Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) the Access Fund as well as the climbing community in general have an ongoing interest in re-opening Williamson Rock to climbing. It is our desire to keep moving forward, to that end, I am submitting this letter to you directly.
Where do we stand?
What is the next step for the USFS ID team?
Is there a firm timeline, based on the NEPA process?
What can we do now to expedite the process?
I appreciate your time and ongoing allocation of resources to this issue.
On behalf of FoWR and our constituents, I look forward to your reply.
Sincerely,
Troy Mayr
President, Friends of Williamson Rock
__________________________________________________________________________________
Dear Mr. Mayr:
Thank you for meeting with District Ranger John Capell back in March regarding the
Williamson Rock area closure. I do apologize for the delay in a formal response to your
inquiries into the status of the closure situation.
When John met with you he relayed that we do not anticipate having the appropriated funds
needed to proceed with the environmental analysis for determining the future of the Williamson
Rock area in fiscal year 2008. Unfortunately, this is still the case. I did have an opportunity to
meet last week with staff from the US Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) to discuss the status of
the Mountain Yellow-Legged Frog (MYLF) population in this area. I wanted to better
understand concerns from their perspective and discuss possible alternatives to enhance the
habitat and prevent further degradation of the species. I learned that there are other factors
possibly affecting the MYLF population in addition to human activities in and around the
riparian area. This is important because before we can find a solution that will allow public use
while still protecting the MYLF population, we need to understand the root causes of the
problems affecting the population. The information learned from this meeting will indeed assist
us in developing a proposed action, which is the first step in the environmental analysis process.
The proposed action is also the basis for the biological assessment/evaluation, which in turn, is
the basis for formal consultation with the FWS to identify what the viable options are. These
efforts all lead to a final decision by the Forest Service on what the future of the area will be with
regards to public use and protection of the resources.
Another piece of new information is that I was notified on Thursday, May 22nd, that companion
bills were introduced in both the House (Congressman Buck McKeon) and Senate (Senator
Barbara Boxer) proposing two new Wilderness Areas on the Angeles. One of the areas is
Pleasant View Ridge, which includes the Williamson Rock area. The second area is Magic
Mountain further to the West near Santa Clarita. The bills have not been assigned numbers that I
am aware of but the House bill is cited as “The Eastern Sierra and Northern San Gabriel Wild
Heritage Act”.
I share your interest in finding a solution that will allow this popular recreation area to be open to
the public to the extent possible while protecting and enhancing the riparian resources. As soon
as we can secure the funds we will pursue the appropriate process. But until we go through the
analysis process and make a final decision regarding the future of the area, I have no other
options but to keep the area closed to the public in order to protect the remaining MYLF
population. That was confirmed for me in our meeting with FWS last week.
Yonni Schwartz will continue to be your contact for this project. He can be reached at
(661) 296-9710 ext 226. Thank you for your continuing interest in this issue.
Sincerely,
Jody Noiron
Forest Supervisor
cc: John Capell
May 19th, 2008
FoWR has learned that the U.S.F.S. are re-grouping their I.D. (Inter Disciplinary) team.
The I.D. team is a specialized group within the U.S.F.S. who’s sole purpose is to focus on the Williamson Rock issue.
The re-grouping was necessary due to the addition of new staff within the U.S.F.S., namely a new biologist who will be an integral part of the I.D. team.
The I.D. team will be meeting within the next month and FoWR hopes to have more info. soon.
They will also be making field trips to Williamson to familiarize those on the I.D. team with Williamson Rock.
While there is no specific time frame for opening the area, the fact that the U.S.F.S. is (re)allocating resources to our issue is a positive step.
FoWR will post any news as it becomes available.
March 13th, 2008
FoWR recently had a meeting with the USFS office who has jurisdiction over WR (Williamson Rock). While there is no tangible result from the meeting our relationship and understanding of the issue(s) was further evolved. It was also our first meeting with the new district ranger in that office. The following notes are of interest.
Due to the separation of the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) and WR issues, the process is stalled. Note: both issues are in the same closure area but to date have been treated separately. The USFS (US Forest Service) submitted a “proposed action” (a bridge was to be constructed over the stream to protect the MYLF) to the USFWS (US Fish and Wildlife Service) regarding the PCT. In response the USFWS replied that the “MYLF (Mountain Yellow Legged Frog) was not adequately protected”. This gave insight as to how the USFWS may reaction to a proposed action for WR. This knowledge will help to define the course of action needed for WR, such as possibly combining the two issues, among other things.
Note: To reiterate, the USFWS is the agency behind the closure, the USFS is the agency we are working with because Williamson Rock is on USFS land, therefore the USFS is working to mitigate the issue with the USFWS.
Regarding the renewing of the closure each year, FoWR learned that the USFS OGC (Office of General Council, ie. USFS Lawyers) needs to resolve how to address the ‘temporary’ closure (which has been ongoing). What this exactly means is unclear at this point, FoWR is looking into the details.
The USFS also stated that they “Applaud us for forming the group. It has made a difference, frankly this issue would be ignored without you”.
As we’ve indicated many times, the process is cumbersome and slow, so please continue be patient.
Troy Mayr
November 12th, 2007
We are currently awaiting an ‘official’ response form the USFS regarding recommendations for moving forward on access issues at Williamson Rock.
‘Unofficially’ the USFS (U.S. Forest Service) does not yet know whether an EA or EIS (see definitions below) is needed for Williamson Rock.
It has been suggested by the USFS ID (Inter Disciplinary) Team that an EIS will be required. The ID team was organized specifically to work on the Williamson Rock issue. If an EIS is required, the process normally takes at year or so to complete depending on whether formal consultation with USFWS (U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service) is required. On a related note, the USFS is working with USFWS on another issue (Pacific Crest Trail) related to the MYLF (Mountain Yellow Legged Frog) in the proximity of Williamson Rock. Recently FoWR learned that the USFWS is requesting formal consultation on that issue. The USFWS is the agency behind the closure, the USFS is managing the issue because Williamson Rock is located on National Forest land.
Also of note, the USFS is currently in a continuing resolution (along with the rest of the federal government) and they have indicated they do not anticipate having the funds available thru their appropriated dollars for either an EA or EIS on the Williamson Rock project in 2008. The USFS will need to consider / secure grants or other funding opportunities to continuing work on the Williamson Rock issue. FoWR may need to provide help with such funding to expedite the process or at least keep it moving. The funding for an EIS is estimated at $60k - $100k. Finally, if an EIS is indeed required it will be managed from the USFS headquarters (not longer the district station we’ve been working with).
Unfortunately (obviously) FoWR believes that the USFS will reissue the closure in Dec. for the following year.
They will presumably justify this by providing ‘partial documentation’, ie. showing progress in a draft EIS, this is a legal requirement pursuant to the NEPA process.
July 2nd, 2007
The USFS / Angeles National Forest has requested public comments on a proposal, which were due June 6th. The proposal is to construct a trail from the Angeles Crest Highway to Williamson Rock, located in the upper reaches of Little Rock Creek within the Angeles National Forest. The proposal will analyze reopening the popular recreation site and rock climbing area to the public, while protecting the mountain yellow-legged frog (MYLF) and its critical habitat.
The information can be found at:
USFS website
and
USFS Proposed Project PDF
Curious of how our (your) response to the USFS Scoping Letter / proposal was received?
Troy Mayr spoke with their primary contact at the USFS and asked him how the climber response was going. His response, “I give up. There are 100’s, they are pouring in like rain!”
So a huge thank you to all who took the time to write!
The USFS did receive letters that could have a negative affect for climbers (which was expected). While the group who wrote doesn’t appear to be against climbing in any way, they are adamant about protecting endangered species above all else (recreation etc.).
In short the USFS will propose a full E.I.S. as opposed to an E.A. Here are the pertinent definitions.
EA: Environmental Assessment - Generally, an EA includes brief discussions of the following: the need for the proposal; alternatives (when there is an unresolved conflict concerning alternative uses of available resources); the environmental impacts of the proposed action and alternatives; and a listing of agencies and persons consulted.
EIS: Environmental Impact Assessment (Study) - A National Environmental Protection Act (NEPA) document. An EIS, should include discussions of the purpose of and need for the action, alternatives, the affected environment, the environmental consequences of the proposed action, lists of preparers, agencies, organizations and persons to whom the statement is sent, an index, and an appendix (if any).
The USFS I.D. (Inter Disciplinary) Team will review the letters received and make a decision as to how to proceed. In all it’s off to a great start but the process is cumbersome and slow, so please continue be patient.
Friends of Williamson Rock will keep all up to date as details continue to unfold.
June 28th, 2007
As you are aware Friends of Williamson Rock is an Access Fund Affiliate. The goal of this relationship is to strengthen the climbing community and the collective voice of climbers across the United States.
In the Access Fund’s continual effort to support the work of Friends of Williamson Rock, the Access Fund and Friends of Williamson Rock have created an annual membership drive program that directly benefits your local needs. Through the end of the summer (September 3, 2007), a portion of every climber’s Access Fund membership contribution associated with Friends of Williamson Rock will be given directly to Friends of Williamson Rock.
How it works:
1. Logon to http://www.accessfund.org/affiliate
2. Renew your membership or contribute an additional donation. For climbers new to the Access Fund, we are offering a special introductory rate of $10.00 only available here [http://www.accessfund.org/affiliate] during the membership drive through September 3.
3. Select Friends of Williamson Rock in the drop-down menu before the end of the summer (September 3, 2007). The Access Fund will automatically designate a portion of your membership dollars to support the work of Friends of Williamson Rock.
On behalf of Friends of Williamson Rock, the Access Fund, and the entire climbing community, thank you for making a difference in keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment on the national, regional, and local level.
Climb-on,
Troy Mayr
June 12th, 2007
This is a copy of FoWR’s response to the USFS scoping letter. It has been reformatted for posting on the blog.
Dear District Ranger Capell,
I am writing on behalf of the non-profit organization Friends of Williamson Rock to support the USFS Angeles National Forest Santa Clara/Mojave River Ranger District’s proposal to develop a trail that will protect the Mountain Yellow-Legged Frog (MYLF) and its critical habitat, while also providing access to the Williamson Rock climbing area. We sincerely appreciate the Santa Clara/Mojave River Ranger District’s continuous outreach to the climbing community throughout this process and thank you for the opportunity to provide scoping comments.
Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR), is a 501(c)(3) non-profit corporation and an Access Fund Affiliate. FoWR is committed to preserving climbing access and activity, as well as protecting the natural environment of the Williamson Rock area.(1) FoWR encourages an ethic of personal responsibility, self- regulation, strong conservation values and minimum impact practices among climbers.
FoWR was organized in 2005 in response to a request from Jody Noiron, Angeles National Forest Supervisor, and Cid Morgan, the previous District Ranger, to provide a liaison to work with the USFS regarding current and future issues that affect the climbing community and its interest in Williamson Rock. FoWR has been working cooperatively with the Santa Clara/Mojave River USFS district since the closure was announced in December 2005. We have made every effort to broadcast the closure among climbers and to have the closure respected by the climbing community. In response to USFS requests, FoWR has researched and written proposals addressing the issues at hand: protection of the MYLF and continued access to the Williamson Rock area.
Since the closure, representatives from FoWR have been on several field trips to Williamson Rock with USFS representatives. On these field trips, FoWR provided a trail expert to help determine how best to maintain access without affecting the MYLF critical habitat, which is upstream and downstream of the actual climbing area. Additionally, FoWR applied for, and received grants from REI, the Access Fund, and many individual donations, which can be used towards studies of the area, trail building, signage, and any other help we can give to the USFS.
I. Climbing at Williamson Rock
Williamson Rock is a very important resource to climbers in Southern California. The area is also well known among climbers from outside the region, including international climbers. It is THE primary site for summer climbing in Southern California due to its elevation, exceptional climbing routes and beautiful setting. The climbing guide, Southern California Sport Climbing lists hundreds of routes at Williamson Rock (Mayr, 2006). Climbers represent the principal recreation user group of the area. Nearly all of FoWR’s 500 members live in Southern California.
FoWR recognizes that recreational access at Williamson Rock must be balanced with proper management to protect the critical habitat needs of the MYLF. FoWR appreciates the USFS’s acknowledgment of the importance of climbing opportunities and believes the proposed trail provides a workable solution that will allow the MYLF and climbers to coexist. FoWR believes that climbers can not only coexist, but can help maintain the critical habitat of the MYLF. Climbers, are strong supporters of the environment, open space and conservation. In some cases, particularly crags that are in proximity to large urban areas, the presence of climbers is appreciated as a deterrent to other public land users who may litter, start fires, and are loud and disrespectful of other people and the environment. Climbers also know it is important to be respectful of the areas they climb at if they want to continue to climb there. This is evidenced by the many established climbing areas throughout California, including Joshua Tree National Park and Yosemite National Park. Designing a trail that will allowing climbing access to Williamson Rock, while working with FoWR to disseminate information and education to protect critical MYLF habitat, would allow use of this valuable climbing resource and support its conservation for future generations.
II. Williamson Rock Trail
The access trail proposed in the Angeles National Forest’s (ANF) Williamson Rock Area and Trail scoping map (2) appears to incorporate the main existing climbers trail. This proposed trail also reflects recommendations by the United States Geological Society (USGS) that “a trail could be constructed that would eliminate foot traffic from the frog area and offer a more direct route to the climbing area as well. Educational signs about the MYLF and about sound sanitation practices could also improve the current condition of the frog habitat there”.(3) Preliminary assessments indicate that the majority of the rock is located outside the stream bed corridor and several hundred feet away from where the MYLF has been located to date, making it probable that the ANF’s proposed trail would not impact MYLF habitat.(4) Consequently, education of climbers and appropriate signage will help to eliminate any intrusion into the MYLF habitat. In partnership with FoWR, there are many ways to educate climbers about any access protocol:
- the dissemination of information throughout the climbing community via climbing gyms, gear shops, and websites and climbing advocacy groups
- signage at a strategic location(s) on the access trail
- information in climbing guides.
In addition to dissemination of information, there are several benefits that a continued partnership with FoWR would provide. FoWR will perform volunteer stewardship projects that will maintain and, if needed, modify the proposed trail. FoWR and the climbing community will monitor the success of the proposed action. Last, and not least, a partnership would provide the opportunity for the USFS to engage the climbing community in the resolution of a critical resource challenge. Such an engagement would no doubt prove extremely instructive, and serve as an invaluable exercise in public lands stewardship.
Now, more than ever, the future of our public lands rests on cooperative partnerships between land management agencies and the public. Given the conservation challenges that exist within the Southern California region a cooperative partnership with FoWR and the climbing community will afford benefits that have the potential to extend far beyond Williamson Rock. Friends of Williamson Rock stands ready to assist the Santa Clara/Mojave River Ranger District’s further exploration of the feasibility of the
Conclusion
We, the members of Friends of Williamson Rock, strongly support the proposed action of developing a trail that will protect the mountain yellow-legged frog and re-opening Williamson Rock to climbing. We are willing to work in partnership with the USFS in every way, with planning, labor and money, to ensure that this is done.
Sincerely,
Troy Mayr
President, Friends of Williamson Rock
- On May 15, 2003 the Access Fund and the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) entered into a memorandum of understanding (See http://accessfund.org/pdf/AF-03-MOU-USFS.pdf) to formalize a cooperative agreement to work at the national, regional and local levels on mutually beneficial programs, projects, training and other activities related to climbing management on USFS lands. The heart of the agreement is the commitment by the Forest Service to encourage its local officials to participate with Access Fund staff, representatives and affiliates in the development of mutually beneficial work projects and educational activities.
- http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/angeles/documents/Williamson_areaMap.pdf
- USGS Draft Annual Report, 2003 Natural History and Recovery Analysis for Southern California Populations of the Mountain Yellow-Legged Frog (Rana muscosa)
- In mid-December, 2005, the Access Fund funded a survey of Williamson Rock for the primary purpose of assessing the potential human disturbance or threats to the MYLF and its habitats, particularly those related to rock climbing, and identifying possible prescriptions for the mitigation of these impacts. This assessment was completed by Mark Hesse of the Rocky Mountain Field Institute. Accompanying Mark Hesse on his field assessment were Angeles National Forest District Resource Officer Jonathan Schwartz, Wildlife Biologist Teresa Sue, Forest Botanist Janet Nickerman, Cindy Hitchcock of US Geologic Survey, Jesse Bennett of the US Fish and Wildlife, and local climber, guidebook author and Friends of Williamson Rock founder Troy Mayr. proposed trail, as well as the creation and implementation of educational messaging to assist in compliance.
May 10th, 2007
NOW is the time to make your voice heard!
The USFS scoping letter has been released.
Click here to view to the USFS main page, see the right column under ‘News’. You can download the scoping letter from this webpage also.
Click here to view to the USFS news release.
You may also download the scoping letter (PDF) here.
Positive, detailed comments from the climbing community are encouraged in the form of a written letter (preferred over e-mail).
Comments may be mailed to:
John F. Capell, District Ranger
Attn. Jonathan Schwartz
Santa Clara/Mojave Rivers Ranger District
30800 Bouquet Canyon Road
Saugus, CA 91390
Letters must be postmarked no later than 5:00PM, Wed. June 6, 2007
We will contact you with more info when it becomes available.
Thanks,
Troy Mayr
April 24th, 2007
Soon it will be time to make your voice heard!
The USFS is currently in the process of preparing a scoping letter. Once the scoping letter is released, it marks the start of the NEPA process for Williamson Rock and vicinity.
The scoping letter prompts public comment and sets the parameters for what the USFS will consider.
Positive, detailed comments from the climbing community are encouraged in the form of a written letter.
When more details are made available to FoWR we will send out an e-mail to our mailing list members.
Not on the mailing list? Join now on by clicking the link to the right.
Thanks for your support!
March 15th, 2007
-After several months of temporary rangers, John Capell is the new USFS Santa Clara Mojave District Ranger. (This is the office we are working with that oversee the Williamson Rock area).
-The USFS will be holding their 1st I.D. (Inter Disciplinary) team meeting in March. The I.D. team is a kind of focus group who’s purpose is solely to work on the Williamson issue.
-The USFS I.D. team and Ranger John Capell are reviewing the Williamson situation (including the documents we’ve prepared) throughout March.
-They have calendared April as a start date for the NEPA process.
These are all positive steps toward re-opening Williamson to climbing…
That’s what we have for now, we will keep you posted.
Thanks for your support!
