November 28th, 2010
Darrell Vance, Williamson Rock ID Team
Angeles National Forest
701 North Santa Anita Avenue
Arcadia, CA 91006
Subject: Comments on Williamson Rock Critical Habitat Closure Environmental Assessment
Dear Mr. Vance:
This letter is written in response to the Environmental Assessment (EA) for the Williamson Rock Critical Habitat Closure. Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) sincerely appreciate this opportunity to comment.
Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR)
As you know, Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) is a non-profit corporation [501(c)(3)] dedicated to preserving climbing access and activity in the Williamson Rock area and protecting its natural environment. FoWR is an Access Fund affiliated local climbing organization. Indeed, the Access Fund has entered into a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with the Forest Service to work cooperatively on climbing access and management issues.1
FoWR has actively worked with the ANF U.S. Forest Service to help resolve the access issues at Williamson Rock by submitting comments to the ANF U.S. Forest Service initial Scoping Letter, attending numerous public scoping meetings, and facilitating Forest Service meetings with the climbing community. Additionally, with grant funds from the Access Fund, FoWR commissioned a trail study of the Williamson Rock area. You can learn more about us at http://williamsonrock.org/
Williamson Rock
Williamson Rock is the premier sport climbing destination in Southern California. Since the 1960s, climbers have been enjoying its mild summer temperatures, proximity to Southern California’s urban centers, and excellent rock quality.
We believe that the ANF’s preferred alternative to close the area for three more years is unnecessary, and instead the ANF should implement the more reasonable Recreational Development Alternative under which facilities would be constructed to route recreational use away from MYLF Critical Biological Habitat.
It is the Access Fund’s experience that virtually all potential threats or actual impacts to natural and cultural resources associated with climbing can be eliminated or reduced to acceptable levels through a combination of education, cooperation with the climbing community, and site-specific prescriptions. This Recreational Development Alternative is the correct management direction for Williamson Rock because it protects sensitive biological resources while allowing appropriate public access to a unique and popular recreation site.
Friends of Williamson Rock supports the comment letters submitted by the Access Fund (http://accessfund.org) and the Allied Climbers of San Diego (http://www.alliedclimbers.org)regarding this public land access issue which is consistent with our position.
Balancing Habitat Protection with Recreational Access
Providing outdoor recreation opportunities is a stated objective in the US Forest Service’s National Strategic Plan (NSP), and the Angeles National Forest Land Resource Plan requires that “conservation education, perimeter control, and management presence” be implemented before restricting public access. While the ANF’s preferred three-year closure alternative is inconsistent with the NSP and ANF Forest Plan, the Recreational Development Alternative is closer to the guidance outlined in these authorities.
Obvious mitigation measures will appropriately balance MYLF habitat protection with recreational access at Williamson Rock. For example, all user-created trails could be replaced by a single maintained trail (the “Long Trail”), and any climbing routes affecting MYLF critical habitat may be closed. Also, climbers can use “wag bags” to dispose human waste and an education program by the ANF promoting Leave No Trace Practices and the specific rules in the planning area will ensure compliance with these measures. The climbing community is a key resource for the ANF to promote, implement, and enforce these actions.
As you know, in 2005 the Access Fund’s Conservation Grants program funded a trail study by the Rocky Mountain Field Institute (http://www.rmfi.org) to analyze access options at Williamson Rock that avoided the critical habitat of the MYLF. The ANF’s Recreational Development Alternative for Williamson Rock is consistent with the findings of this trail assessment which found that once riparian areas, buffer zones, and the necessary critical habitat are determined, an alternative trail could solve the trail-wildlife conflict:
The majority of the rock is located outside the streambed corridor and several hundred feet away from where the Mountain yellow-legged frog has been located to date. In the event that a trail from [the main] parking lot is established to provide access for climbers, a stream crossing can be easily constructed to avoid any disturbance to the streambed.
The establishment of a single access trail to Williamson Rock and the closure of all other existing ‘social’ trails at the site would . . . reduce [direct climber interaction with] the Mountain yellow-legged frog and the Johnson’s buckwheat.
Like the RMFI study, the ANF Recreational Development Alternative includes a map indicating that a trail could be built that avoids the streambed critical to the health of the MYLF. We believe that this analysis serves as an effective guide for designing climbing access to Williamson Rock that minimizes resource impacts.
Recreational Development Alternative
The Access Fund supports the Recreational Development Alternative because we believe it will accomplish the goal of allowing limited recreational access to Williamson Rock while protecting and restoring critical MYLF habitat within the upper Little Rock Creek drainage. We support the following elements in the Recreational Development Alternative:
• The development facilities along Angeles Crest Highway. A parking lot, toilet, trailhead and informational kiosk will allow climbers and hikers a place to park and a toilet to mitigate human waste issues. Importantly, parking facilities will also allow for an informational kiosk that highlights restrictions and closures at the rock itself.
• Designation and development of a single access trail to Williamson Rock to protect the quality of the visitor experience, promote human safety, and promote the recovery of species. The designation of a “Long Trail” as the single access trail to Williamson Rock will steer climbers and hikers away from critical MYLF habitat towards the designated staging area. Signage and barriers should be strategically placed to encourage use of the trail. We also support the closure of all other “user-created” braided trails and paths along scree slopes at Williamson Rock which have historically provided access across MYLF habitat to Williamson Rock.
• Designation and development of a primary staging area. By directing climbers to a specific staging area—preferably on a hard, durable surface—potential impacts at the base of the rock beneath specific climbing routes will be minimized. The ANF should also provide an additional informational kiosk at this staging location to highlight “eco-friendly climbing principles” (plant and animal avoidance, packing out all garbage, etc.) to aid in public understanding of conservation and recovery needs for the area.
• Closure of areas on permanent and seasonal bases, as necessary, to protect the habitat and reproductive success of species. The Access Fund supports an area closure for a distance of 50 feet from centerline of Little Rock Creek for the duration of the MYLF critical habitat designation. This closure area includes all stream-based rock climbing routes (e.g. the “Stream Wall” and “London Wall”) to reduce the potential for human/frog interaction. While climbers would prefer an alternative that maintained access to the London and Stream Walls, the Access Fund appreciates the importance of stream habitat to the MYLF and agrees to the closure of these specific areas.
•The production of a Williamson Rock Area Management Plan. A management plan is critical to outline what areas are permanently closed, what areas have temporary closures (and why), where the trail and staging area are located, and a process for amending and improving management policies in the future at Williamson Rock. In order to ensure the effectiveness of management, this plan should monitor access restriction compliance, adjust access and use protocols, guide stewardship projects, and provide for biological enhancement activities to provide species recovery. As funding permits, ongoing tri-annual surveys by the USGS of the MYLF populations in the ANF and annual supplemental condition surveys should be conducted for all sensitive species in the planning area.
Friend of Williamson Rock stands ready to assist the ANF in accomplishing the various elements of the Recreational Development Alternative. This effort should include the production of educational material regarding environmentally sensitive and low-impact climbing practices for the proposed staging area kiosk. We can also provide valuable assistance for drafting of a management plan.
Sincerely,
Troy Mayr
CEO / Friends of Williamson Rock
www.williamsonrock.org
Cc: The Honorable Diane Feinstein, US Senate
The Honorable Barbara Boxer, US Senate
The Honorable Howard McKeon, US House of Representatives
Jody Noiron, Forest Supervisor, Angeles National Forest
Brady Robinson, Access Fund Executive Director
Jason Keith, Access Fund Policy Director
Jim Pincter-Lucke, Access Fund California Regional Coordinator
Randy Vogel, Esq.
September 3rd, 2010
US Forest Service Releases Draft Williamson Rock Plan, Temporary Closure Likely to Continue for at Least Three More Years!
The Angeles National Forest recently released a set of alternatives for managing climbing access at Williamson Rock north of Los Angeles (see previous post below). Williamson has been closed since 2005 while the US Forest Service analyzed whether to allow climbing access while also protecting a federally-listed endangered frog species and its critical habitat. The 2009 Station Fire complicated matters further when neighboring portions of the forest were burned (including other critical habitat). This draft plan proposes to extend the existing “temporary” closure at Williamson Rock for an additional three years for species monitoring. According to the Angeles National Forest, this action is needed “while neighboring [mountain yellow-legged frog] population segments are given time to rebound from the effects of wildfire and consequent watershed emergency.”
FoWR is working with our partners at the Access Fund and Allied Climbers of San Diego to assess whether the closure extension is warranted and to analyze and advocate for a management alternative allowing climbing, such as Alternative 3 in the Williamson Rock draft plan under which facilities would be constructed to route use away from critical biological habitat. You can view the US Forest Service’s draft environmental assessment at the previous post, below.
Your comments, which must be submitted by October 1, may be sent to:
Darrell Vance
Attn: Williamson Rock Environmental Assessment
701 N. Santa Anita Ave. Arcadia, CA 91006
Email: dvance@fs.fed.us
September 1st, 2010
The USFS has posted an EA (Environmental Assessment). It can be found here:
http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/angeles/projects/
Direct link to the Environmental Assessment (PDF)
October 6th, 2009
Thanks to Alpinist magazine for spreading the word in an article on Williamson Rock.
If you haven’t already you can help by taking action now!
The Access Fund Action Center has an online form to help you comment.
It will take less than one minute to make your voice heard.
October 5th, 2009
The following is the official USFS proposal (which define the measures which may restore access to Williamson Rock).
These are the documents (.pdf downloads) that the USFS is seeking public comment on:
The Access Fund Action Center has an online form to help you comment.
October 2nd, 2009
The U.S. Forests Service is requesting public comments on a proposal to restore access to Williamson Rock.
Please make your voice heard.
If you are on the Access Fund, FoWR or ACSD mailing list(s) you will also receive an e-mail with instructions next week.
The proposal envisions reopening some areas at Williamson Rock to the public and implementing measures, such as re-routing the approach trail, to protect the endangered mountain yellow-legged frog (MYLF) and its critical habitat. While the London and Stream Walls will remain temporarily closed to allow the MYLF population to recover, we believe that the proposal is a vast improvement over the status quo – total closure.
A hard copy letter, in your own words, is preferred over e-mail.
Please mail your letter to:
Angeles National Forest
Williamson Rock ID Team
ATTN: Darrell Vance
701 N. Santa Anita Ave
Arcadia, CA 91006
As a last resort, if you are unable to drop a letter in the mail, then you can send your comments via e-mail to:
dvance@fs.fed.us
Some general writing points (put into your own words):
- You are in support of the proposed actions.
- State why climbing at Williamson is important to you, the beauty of the area etc.
- Climbers (you) respect and care for the natural areas in which we climb and are committed to access and conservation.
- Climbers are good stewards of the area.
- Climbers are willing to work with the USFS and other agencies to mitigate the problem.
- Williamson is a very valuable resource to climbers (no alternative crag like it).
- Include your contact info (include name, address and email)
Thank you all for your attention, time and effort!
September 13th, 2009
The Angeles National Forest is asking for Public comments on a proposal to resolve the existing temporary closure in the Williamson Rock vicinity.
Williamson Rock is located on National Forest System lands within the Santa Clara-Mojave Rivers Ranger District, in upper Little Rock Canyon, Los Angeles County, California. The proposed action involves portions of T. 3N, R. 9W, Section 7, and T. 3N, R. 10W, Sections 11, 12, 13, and 14, SBM. The proposed action would reopen the area to dispersed recreation while providing required protection for Federally-listed biological species. The Forest is soliciting public input for the issues to be addressed in the environmental analysis.
Comments must be received within 45 days from the publication date of this notice (09/12). This comment period provides interested parties, including those affected by the proposal, an opportunity to make their concerns known. Comments may be mailed to Williamson Rock ID Team, ATTN: Darrell Vance, Angeles National Forest, 701 N. Santa Anita Ave, Arcadia, CA 91006, or electronically at dvance@fs.fed.us.
September 10th, 2009
Sources indicate that the Angeles National Forest “Station Fire” did not reach Williamson Rock.
The USFS have obviously been working on the fire and related issues. It is unclear how the fire tragedy will affect the scoping process or the issue in general. There is certainly collateral damage (see below). We will be in communication with the USFS soon and let you know what we learn.
Fire boundary map can be see here.
Other noteworthy fire related news:
Angeles Crest Hwy (Hwy 2) closed indefinitely.
August 5th, 2009
Last month FoWR board member Kai Zinn attended another field trip to Williamson Rock with the USFS, confirming the possible solutions that were discussed during the prior trip (see post below).
FoWR is currently waiting for the USFS to complete the proposed actions document. We are hoping to have this information soon. When we receive this we will advise any action that is needed from the climbing community.
Thanks for your ongoing patience, support and cooperation.
May 26th, 2009
Important Note: None of this is official until the required NEPA documents are finalized and scoping process etc. is completed.
Public scoping will be relatively soon and we will need your help with another letter writing campaign.
FoWR will provide more specific details when available.
On May 20th 2009 Troy Mayr and Brent Ware (FoWR) with Darrell Vance and Yonni Schwartz (USFS) went on a field trip to Williamson Rock.
The purpose of this field trip was to discuss “on the ground” the USFS proposed measures including; the actual ‘new’ Long Trail approach, the critical habitat boundary, to give the USFS a tour of the the crag from a climber perspective and to show the USFS which crags were which (so they could reference the guidebook). On that note they were surprised at the level of “organization” at the crag, which they viewed positively, in that it made defining access much more precise.
We met at the Long Trail (East) parking lot.
Yonni and Darrell told us that the Short Trail will not work, primarily because it goes down right into the water / MYLF critical habitat (see previous post below). As a consequence the USFS indicated that the short trail and parking lot(s) will be completely closed and rehabbed.
The Long Trail parking lot will be improved and made the only option for approaching the crag. The USFS would also install a toilet at the trail head at the parking lot. The long trail is less than a mile long and will be a pleasant hike after the trail work is completed. We discussed signage requirements, potential locations and where the trail would access the crag (near the Ramblin Wall / Pyramid portion of the crag, far away from the stream). It will be essential for climbers to stay on the designated trail(s). The Long Trail would have to be modified in minor ways, the most significant of which is closing off all the alternatives such as the segment of the trail runs right above the pools.
There will be no access to the stream corridor period. Also, no dogs will be allowed in the area.
Darrell and Yonni think that it should be possible to maintain access to all the upper crags, the Generation Wall, Secret Garden, etc. and mostly likely the lower area’s including the Waterfall Wall / Upper Head Wall and vicinity. We also discussed maintaining access to all the upper front side crags, including Voices Wall, Eagles Roost Buttress, Freezer Burn Wall etc., this would be achieved by “fencing off” the stream corridor (with some sort of barrier rustic / natural in appearance) to prevent people from going down to the stream in the area below the Waterfall Wall to the Voices Wall at the Mushroom Boulder. The bad news is that we would lose the London Wall, the Stream Wall, and all the climbs downstream of those as well as the Mushroom Boulder. Unfortunately a couple of the best crag in the area would be lost but that seems a small price to pay to protect the MYLF critical habitat and to gain access to the greater part of the crag.
The USFS would monitor activity at the crag, especially during peak times (weekends). It was also discussed that limited access would be granted initially, allowing for more as it was determined that the measures were effective. How this would be monitored is unclear at this point.
All in all the trip was a success and we hope that the resolution evolves more quickly as a result.
The view from the proposed long trail approach.
May 5th, 2009
Recently, the USFS ID Team made a field visit to Williamson rock.
FoWR discussed this with them and learned the following.
The USFS looked at the short trail(s), and concluded that those will not work.
They feel that there is too much risk from a safety standpoint if they develop that trail.
The USFS botanist identified another sensitive plant in that vicinity as well, so that option becomes even more problematic.
They also examined the long trail and although there are 2 stream crossings, they believe that this may be the most realistic solution for access.
They used a GPS to chart the existing trail, which they will be proposing to develop for access to the northeast side of the rock.
They also have interest from the biological community from people who want to help with falcon monitoring.
We will post news as it presents itself.
Troy Mayr
April 3rd, 2009
To learn more about the plight of frogs in general, including the Mountain Yellow Legged Frog (MYLF), pick up an issue of this months (April 2009) edition of National Geographic magazine. The story, The Vanishing, can also be found on their website.
The photo gallery for this story can be seen here
March 25th, 2009
FoWR recently attended a meeting with the USFS.
The USFS is continuing to work on developing the ‘best options’ that will allow access to Williams Rock, while enhancing the protection of the Mountain Yellow Legged Frog (MYLF).
While there was nothing definitive to report from this meeting, be assured that there is ongoing work being done on the Williamson Rock issue. We will provide more details as they become available and notify you directly when action is needed.
Thanks!
March 23rd, 2009
FoWR / AF recently attended a meeting at Congressman Howard “Buck” McKeon’s office with his Senior Field Representative Conor McGee (the congressman himself was not present). The meeting also included representatives from the USFS ID team and Acting Forest Supervisor. This meeting was initiated by Wayne Burnes a local climber in McKeon’s district.
While there were no new developments at this meeting (for a listing of the topics discussed, see the previous post) it is noteworthy that the process is underway, we are involved and were invited to attend.
Suffice it to say, McKeon’s office understands that there are dedicated, informed groups representing the climbing community who want Williamson Rock access restored while protecting the MYLF habitat. Thank you for your participation in the recent email writing campaign, your e-mails were delivered to McKeon’s office. Also thanks again to all who have written letters to your elected officials.
We have recently been contacted regarding another meeting at the USFS headquarters.
There is a lot of movement currently we will present news as it becomes available.
February 17th, 2009
- The USFS to implement strategy (to be determined) by Oct. 2009
- The NEPA process will be initiated, including: Proposed actions, Possible climbing management plan and required documents. An E.A. (Environmental Assessment) is what we are hoping will be the required document. This is currently what FoWR / AF preferred vs. an E.I.S. (Environmental Impact Study).
- The USFS is currently evaluating nearby recreation issues, which at the core may be unassociated with the use of the Rock. These are being analyzed to determine which can be unlinked from the Williamson Rock issue. These will hopefully be separately ‘categorically excluded’ under NEPA, in an attempt to lessen the perceived ‘cumulative effect’ to the biological resources.
- The USFS is currently evaluating the approach trails used to access Williamson Rock. There is the possibility that one of the proposed actions may include exclusive use of ‘the Long Trail’ as a climbers trail. The USFS currently thinks that alternative would be best to avoid the MYLF habitat all together.
- FoWR will learn more by April, when the ‘best alternatives’ are further defined. We will provide more details as they become available.
