May 26th, 2009
Important Note: None of this is official until the required NEPA documents are finalized and scoping process etc. is completed.
Public scoping will be relatively soon and we will need your help with another letter writing campaign.
FoWR will provide more specific details when available.
On May 20th 2009 Troy Mayr and Brent Ware (FoWR) with Darrell Vance and Yonni Schwartz (USFS) went on a field trip to Williamson Rock.
The purpose of this field trip was to discuss “on the ground” the USFS proposed measures including; the actual ‘new’ Long Trail approach, the critical habitat boundary, to give the USFS a tour of the the crag from a climber perspective and to show the USFS which crags were which (so they could reference the guidebook). On that note they were surprised at the level of “organization” at the crag, which they viewed positively, in that it made defining access much more precise.
We met at the Long Trail (East) parking lot.
Yonni and Darrell told us that the Short Trail will not work, primarily because it goes down right into the water / MYLF critical habitat (see previous post below). As a consequence the USFS indicated that the short trail and parking lot(s) will be completely closed and rehabbed.
The Long Trail parking lot will be improved and made the only option for approaching the crag. The USFS would also install a toilet at the trail head at the parking lot. The long trail is less than a mile long and will be a pleasant hike after the trail work is completed. We discussed signage requirements, potential locations and where the trail would access the crag (near the Ramblin Wall / Pyramid portion of the crag, far away from the stream). It will be essential for climbers to stay on the designated trail(s). The Long Trail would have to be modified in minor ways, the most significant of which is closing off all the alternatives such as the segment of the trail runs right above the pools.
There will be no access to the stream corridor period. Also, no dogs will be allowed in the area.
Darrell and Yonni think that it should be possible to maintain access to all the upper crags, the Generation Wall, Secret Garden, etc. and mostly likely the lower area’s including the Waterfall Wall / Upper Head Wall and vicinity. We also discussed maintaining access to all the upper front side crags, including Voices Wall, Eagles Roost Buttress, Freezer Burn Wall etc., this would be achieved by “fencing off” the stream corridor (with some sort of barrier rustic / natural in appearance) to prevent people from going down to the stream in the area below the Waterfall Wall to the Voices Wall at the Mushroom Boulder. The bad news is that we would lose the London Wall, the Stream Wall, and all the climbs downstream of those as well as the Mushroom Boulder. Unfortunately a couple of the best crag in the area would be lost but that seems a small price to pay to protect the MYLF critical habitat and to gain access to the greater part of the crag.
The USFS would monitor activity at the crag, especially during peak times (weekends). It was also discussed that limited access would be granted initially, allowing for more as it was determined that the measures were effective. How this would be monitored is unclear at this point.
All in all the trip was a success and we hope that the resolution evolves more quickly as a result.
The view from the proposed long trail approach.
May 5th, 2009
Recently, the USFS ID Team made a field visit to Williamson rock.
FoWR discussed this with them and learned the following.
The USFS looked at the short trail(s), and concluded that those will not work.
They feel that there is too much risk from a safety standpoint if they develop that trail.
The USFS botanist identified another sensitive plant in that vicinity as well, so that option becomes even more problematic.
They also examined the long trail and although there are 2 stream crossings, they believe that this may be the most realistic solution for access.
They used a GPS to chart the existing trail, which they will be proposing to develop for access to the northeast side of the rock.
They also have interest from the biological community from people who want to help with falcon monitoring.
We will post news as it presents itself.
Troy Mayr
April 3rd, 2009
To learn more about the plight of frogs in general, including the Mountain Yellow Legged Frog (MYLF), pick up an issue of this months (April 2009) edition of National Geographic magazine. The story, The Vanishing, can also be found on their website.
The photo gallery for this story can be seen here
March 25th, 2009
FoWR recently attended a meeting with the USFS.
The USFS is continuing to work on developing the ‘best options’ that will allow access to Williams Rock, while enhancing the protection of the Mountain Yellow Legged Frog (MYLF).
While there was nothing definitive to report from this meeting, be assured that there is ongoing work being done on the Williamson Rock issue. We will provide more details as they become available and notify you directly when action is needed.
Thanks!
March 23rd, 2009
FoWR / AF recently attended a meeting at Congressman Howard “Buck” McKeon’s office with his Senior Field Representative Conor McGee (the congressman himself was not present). The meeting also included representatives from the USFS ID team and Acting Forest Supervisor. This meeting was initiated by Wayne Burnes a local climber in McKeon’s district.
While there were no new developments at this meeting (for a listing of the topics discussed, see the previous post) it is noteworthy that the process is underway, we are involved and were invited to attend.
Suffice it to say, McKeon’s office understands that there are dedicated, informed groups representing the climbing community who want Williamson Rock access restored while protecting the MYLF habitat. Thank you for your participation in the recent email writing campaign, your e-mails were delivered to McKeon’s office. Also thanks again to all who have written letters to your elected officials.
We have recently been contacted regarding another meeting at the USFS headquarters.
There is a lot of movement currently we will present news as it becomes available.
February 17th, 2009
- The USFS to implement strategy (to be determined) by Oct. 2009
- The NEPA process will be initiated, including: Proposed actions, Possible climbing management plan and required documents. An E.A. (Environmental Assessment) is what we are hoping will be the required document. This is currently what FoWR / AF preferred vs. an E.I.S. (Environmental Impact Study).
- The USFS is currently evaluating nearby recreation issues, which at the core may be unassociated with the use of the Rock. These are being analyzed to determine which can be unlinked from the Williamson Rock issue. These will hopefully be separately ‘categorically excluded’ under NEPA, in an attempt to lessen the perceived ‘cumulative effect’ to the biological resources.
- The USFS is currently evaluating the approach trails used to access Williamson Rock. There is the possibility that one of the proposed actions may include exclusive use of ‘the Long Trail’ as a climbers trail. The USFS currently thinks that alternative would be best to avoid the MYLF habitat all together.
- FoWR will learn more by April, when the ‘best alternatives’ are further defined. We will provide more details as they become available.
February 11th, 2009
The following document was prepared by FoWR (with help from several science professionals) to provide mitigation measures as well as other requisite information. A copy of the Williamson Rock Access and Conservation Project document can be found here (4.6MB PDF).
February 6th, 2009
Thank you to everyone for writing letters to your congressional representatives and influencing others to write as well.
A big thanks for Jason (and everyone) at the Access Fund, Jason’s Washington D.C. trip and your letters have been instrumental in getting this response from the USFS. We’ve got a long way to go still, but we hope that this is the tipping point.
It is definitely a huge step forward it terms of the USFS allocation of time, monies and personnel to the Williamson Rock issue.
Now the big news…
As a result of our recent meeting with the USFS and USFWS, there has been significant progress:
- The ANF / USFS has secured $85k for the current fiscal year (Oct - Oct) that will be allocated to the Williamson Rock issue, earmarked for (what we hope will be) an E.A. (Environmental Assessment).
- The Williamson Rock issue has been elevated from the regional office in Santa Clarita to the supervisors office in Arcadia, Ca.
- A new I.D. (Inter Disciplinary) Team has been formed, including specialists from the supervisors office.
- Darrell Vance is being assigned as Team Leader for the Williamson Rock project.
- Lisa Northrop, Forest Resources Staff Officer will be the lead staff officer to support Darrell and the team. Lisa supervises all resource specialists.
The USFS thanked FoWR / AF for our patience:
“I appreciate how frustrating the situation has been (for all of us).
We need our partners to help to figure out what is the best and right thing to do out there.
Our goal is to find a way to protect the resources while allowing recreation uses to continue.”
The Omnibus Public Lands Bill (#22) has passed the Senate and is in the House.
In the the bill the Forest Service asked for a larger exclusion area for Williamson
Rock from designated wilderness. Which is what FoWR had requested.
On behalf of FoWR, I have spoken with congressman David Drier’s office in support of this bill.
Thanks again for your effort and patience, we will keep you posted as news becomes available.
Troy
December 17th, 2008
Williamson Rock, Angeles National Forest
Chronology of US Forest Service Management
1980s – Recreational rock climbing begins at Williamson Rock on the Angeles Crest in the Angeles National Forest.
Mid 1990s – Access Fund organizes trail projects and proposes funding for a composting toilet at Williamson Rock.
2002 – U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) list the Mountain Yellow-legged Frog (MYLF) as an endangered species under the Endangered Species Act of 1973.
2003 – USGS biologists prepare research papers studying the MYLF at Williamson Rock and recommend as adequate mitigation closing or rerouting trails to the rock and addressing potential human waste issues.
Spring 2004 – FWS communicate with the Angeles National Forest (ANF) about closing Williamson Rock to protect the MYLF population breeding upstream.
2004 – Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) formed. http://williamsonrock.org/index.php.
December 2005 – Access Fund contractor prepares a report analyzing alternate trail approaches to Williamson Rock and identifying potential mitigation measures.
December 2005 – ANF issues closure order “to protect critical habitat of the mountain yellow-legged frog, and temporarily limit access to approximately 1,000 acres in the area north of the Angeles Crest Highway” including Williamson Rock, “an area frequented by rock climbers.” ANF states its commitment to meet with members of the rock climbing community to work on a proposal that may eventually allow continued climbing at Williamson Rock.
February 2006 – FoWR submits to the ANF an access and mitigation plan that would allow for recreational access to Williamson Rock while also conserving the MYLF population.
September 2006 – FWS designates Little Rock Creek adjacent to Williamson Rock as “Critical Habitat” under the Endangered Species Act.
January 2007 – FoWR provides the ANF with a draft “Notice of Intent to Prepare an Environmental Analysis” with the purpose to protect the MYLF population while regulating use of Williamson Rock in a manner consistent with mandates and restrictions of law.
February 2007 – ANF organizes an Inter-Disciplinary Team to analyze the Williamson Rock “temporary” closure. ANF sets a timeline for the required NEPA process to conclude by the end of 2007.
June 2007 – The Access Fund and FoWR provide scoping comments to ANF proposal to develop a management plan that will protect the MYLF and its critical habitat, while also providing access to the Williamson Rock climbing area.
October 2007 – The Santa Clara Mojave Rivers Ranger District Office is destroyed by the Buckweed Fire. All buildings and office equipment are destroyed along with records, project files, special use permit files, and contract and business files. The destruction included most of the documentation files regarding the Williamson Rock issue.
December 2007 – ANF issues decision memo authorizing the continued “temporary” closure of the Williamson Rock area from January 1, 2008 through December 31, 2008 to address “concerns related to the protection of the Mountain Yellow-legged Frog and its Critical Habitat in the area.” This decision was categorically excluded from documentation and is not subject to review or appeal.
May 2008 – ANF sends FoWR a letter explaining that until the USFS completes the environmental analysis their only option is to keep Williamson Rock closed to the public. ANF also states that it will not have the appropriated funds to undertake this process in its 2008 fiscal year and gives no timeline when funds may become available or plans for pursuing such funds.
July 2008 – ANF begins the process of re-activating its Williamson Rock Inter- Disciplinary Team. FoWR communicates with the ANF’s lead biologist who indicates that the ANF has not received the required biological opinion from the FWS because the ANF has not provided the FWS with a proposed action for managing Williamson Rock (similar to the draft FoWR provided to the ANF in January of 2007) beyond annual “temporary” closure orders. The ANF biologist indicated that the MYLF population was increasing and that a potential solution to the Williamson closure is increase the tadpole population by translocation to nearby areas.
August 2008 – FoWR calls and sends letter to the ANF urging the allocation of necessary funds to begin the environmental analysis process, either through current budget resources or via future congressional appropriations.
October 2008 – FoWR and Access Fund issue action alert urging membership to write the USFS and Congress demanding action on the Williamson Rock environmental analysis.
October 7th, 2008
Three Years Later ‘Temporary’ Climbing Closure at Williamson Rock Continues
Your Letters to Congress Needed by November 15th.
The Angeles National Forest continues to enforce a “temporary” climbing closure at Williamson Rock near Los Angeles three years after the ban was first implemented. The climbing ban was intended to protect critical habitat of the mountain yellow-legged frog (MYLF) while the Forest Service studied options for an alternate access trail. Unfortunately, while climbers have complied with the access prohibition, the USFS has failed to even obtain funding to pay for an E.A. environmental analysis.
More background information can be found at:
Your letters to Congress are needed to increase pressure on the USFS / Angeles National Forest to fund an environmental analysis that may open up climbing access at Williamson Rock while also protecting the MYLF. It’s time to ask your federal representatives to put pressure on the Forest Service to do its job.
Please take a couple minutes to write Senators Feinstein and Boxer, and your US House Representative. Ask them to contact the Angeles National Forest and urge them to begin the environmental analysis for Williamson Rock that was promised there years ago.
An original letter, in your own words, (using the sample below as a guide) is most effective.
However, any letter is better than none, so if need be feel free to use the following sample letter and send a hard copy via US mail.
(email should only be used as a last resort).
To find your US Representative, enter your zip code in the following link:
http://capwiz.com/outdooralliance/dbq/officials/
[Date]
The Honorable Dianne Feinstein
United States Senate
One Post Street, Suite 2450
San Francisco, California 94104
John_Watts@Feinstein.senate.gov
The Honorable Barbara Boxer
United States Senate
1700 Montgomery Street, Suite 240
San Francisco, California 94111
Committee@Boxer.senate.gov
The Honorable [__]
US House of Representatives
[_____]
[______]
RE: Climbing Access to Williamson Rock,
Angeles National Forest
Dear Senators Feinstein and Boxer,
Representative [__]:
I write today on behalf of the Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) requesting assistance towards funding an environmental analysis that may lead to public access and wildlife protections at Williamson Rock. The Friends of Williamson Rock (www.williamsonrock.org), is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization committed to preserving climbing access and activity, as well as protecting the natural environment of the Williamson Rock area. The FoWR is also an affiliate of the Access Fund (www.accessfund.org), a national, non-profit climbers’ organization dedicated to preserving the natural resources used by climbers, and climbers’ access to those resources.
The Williamson Rock area is a well-known recreation site on public land used predominately for rock climbing since the 1960’s and is widely regarded as a unique rock climbing resource for the entire Southern California region. Indeed, Williamson is the premier sport climbing destination in Southern California. For three years climbers have respected a “temporary” closure at Williamson Rock while the Angeles National Forest prepared an alternate trail study that would protect sensitive frog species while also providing public access to this popular area. Climbers have participated in a scoping process for the environmental analysis investigating alternatives to a total closure of Williamson Rock including re-routing trails, seasonal closures, and climber education. This “temporary” closure has been in effect since December 2005, yet the Angeles National Forest recently indicated that it will again not have the funds to begin the environmental analysis in its 2008 fiscal year. For more information on this issue, see http://williamsonrock.org/blog/
I request your assistance in contacting the Angeles National Forest and urge them to prioritize the appropriation of funds for an environmental analysis process. Rock climbing at Williamson is a valuable low-impact recreational use, a complete closure of the public’s land is unacceptable, and a 3-year “temporary” closure is too long (if not illegal).
Local climbers have addressed this issue in a proactive manner, and seek a solution that will be acceptable to all over the long term. Unfortunately, the Angeles National Forest has been unresponsive and has failed to appropriately address the closure of public lands at Williamson.
Please call or write as soon as possible to inform me of actions you have undertaken to help us pursue a balanced, compromise solution to the issue of public access at Williamson Rock. Thank you for your attention to this important matter.
Sincerely,
[Signature]
[Your name and address here]
